Rescued Paella Pan

So, the neighbor from Sturgeon Bay WI is walking down the dock with a familiar looking pan....

He's throwing it away....his wife doesn't want it because it's rusty!!

So now we once again have a paella pan on board the boat....I took the last one off when we cleaned out the lazerette in the keys.

Infatuation

Who doesn't like lighthouses?

This one still works! Unguided tour up to the top. Here is the rotating beacon....I actually made it spin...easily on it's bed of mercury!....and it just kept turning gently.

The fresnel lenses are clearly seen here and th kerosene burner in the middle...also note the chimney above the lamp....very cool!

a month in the Abacos

Yesterday marked our first month in the Bahamas at the Abacos Cays. (it was also Vaughn's birthday so we splurged with Conch Fritters and French Fries at lunch and then were given a big chunk of fresh Grouper by a neighboring boat.)

Our Hopetown stop has included access to a very nice pool next door at Hopetown Hideaways....large nice deck with gazebos surrounding the largest pool we've used in the Abacos.

Local spear fisherman come by to clean some huge grouper...maybe 25# fish.

There seem to be some constants in these here islands.....

Warm and Sunny during the day with temperatures up to about 80. Usually a breeze.

Cools down at night for good sleeping weather...about 70, usually a breeze.

We have not used the air conditioning at all.

Not much rain, sometimes clouds.

Lovely sand beaches.....sunrises....sunsets....moon and stars!

Lots of different boats to see and great boaters to talk to....Australians, Europeans, Canadians...

Folks from Park City Utah, Toronto, Washington DC, Sturgeon Bay, Vancouver...you never know

Everything is expensive....gasoline $6, beer $5, ice cream cone $5....case of beer $50-75

Fish and Conch cheaper.....grouper $9/lb, snapper $6....a dozen conch fritters $7

.....expect to pay about 2 to 3 times what you do at home in the grocery....but they do have selection in the big city of Marsh Harbor.

...except the rum $8 for a bottle.

Water is sold by the gallon, usually about 25 to 30 cents out of the hose....cheaper on the mainland at $3/day if you stay a few days. In our first month we've been able to only pay once for water at Marsh Harbor....8 days at $3....so our first month was only $24....We came over full, had free water at West End, filled up at Harbor View Marina and still have another week in the tank (we hope).....probably fill up this week with another night at MH.....$15?

We've done a couple of the local venues.....rib night at the Jib Room, Sunday Pig Roast at Nippers, Sunset at Grabbers, Breakfast at Mango's and our cheap date at Captain Jacks with the nice $3 fries!

Real estate here is crazy expensive....but we're close to the US and like everywhere have driven up prices and then collapsed....who knows where prices go now!

Maintenance of the boat continues....Vaughn now touches up the brightwork. I've replaced the pump on the generator and zincs in the engines......batteries are a challenge....found I'd boiled my instrument bank dry somehow...keep a better eye on them now!

We now will head south this week for snorkeling at a shallow reef that was recognized by Jacques Cousteau and go to Little Harbor to see Pete's pub and enjoy the protected anchorage there.

Then who knows....off to Bimini? or back through these Abacos.

Cool...

This lighthouse was a joy to sit under. After the sunset as the dusk settles in the lighthouse was darkening in the sky. Suddenly the whole lantern is aglow in a golden light as the lamp was lit. Another minute or two and the lens started rotating on its mercury bed.

5 flashes, then 5 seconds delay.

It was mesmerizing sitting in the darkness watching this old kerosene lamp fired lighthouse work, essentially using a grandfather clock mechanism and cannonball weights!

HOPETOWN

We found a dock for $100 a week right under this historic lighthouse....no electric or water...but hey, it's a new dock and better than a mooring or anchoring.

Who could hate a lighthouse? Years ago Bahamians, especially Abaconians, felt a strong and guiltless enmity towards lighthouses.... animosity began in 1836 when the first two major lighthouses were built in the Bahamas, one on the southern tip of Great Abaco Island at Hole-in-the-Wall and the other at Gun Cay just south of Bimini. Concerned shipping interests had implored England to improve navigation aids in her colonies because of the increasing number of ships that were leaving their bones there.

"However, because many Abaconians made a good living from salvaging (then know as 'wracking') the unfortunate ships that ended their sailing days on the dangerous shoals of this low archipelago of reefs, rocks, cays and white beaches, navigation aids were no friends of the 'wrackers.'

"Merchant sail flourished between 1820 and 1880 and the Bahama Islands lay spread-out along its way. The Bahamian wracking fleet stood ready to help, with almost 300 vessels licensed to cruise the reefs in search of luckless ships to salvage, employing half of the able-bodied men in the country and accounting for about half of this British colony's revenue. The records for 1860 show an amazing average of one wreck per month at Abaco alone.

"Wracking was a lucrative business. The system required that the salvaged cargo, considered to be imported goods, be shipped to Nassau for auction with the government taking 15%, the agents 15% and 40 to 60% going back to the wrackers. The ship owners received the 10 - 30% that was left, which doesn't' seem like much, but had it not been for the wrackers and the system they would have received nothing.

"In order to build the Elbow Reef Lightstation, the Imperial Lighthouse Service, Trinity House, London, brought in some outside help but also employed many Hope Towners to unload supplies, quarry the limestone rock for building foundations and cisterns, to mix the cement and carry out the myriads of other chores can are a part of a construction job of such magnitude. The locals were glad for the jobs but at the same time they wished that they were not building a lighthouse. There were reports by the supervisors that some locals sank a supply barge one night and also withheld fresh water from the workers.

"Despite the wrecking community's protests, the light station was completed in 1864: a fixed (non-rotating), first-order (of brightness) light, warning ships away from the treacherous reef extending a considerable distance to seaward of Elbow Cay

"Lighthouses ­ ever silent sentinels and angels to the sailor ­ along with the advent of steam replacing sail and more accurate nautical charts, combined to finally put the wracking industry on the rocks.

"Another economic bubble had burst for the people of Hope Town.

"In 1936 the Imperial Lighthouse Service realized that the light at Gun Cay was being 'used less and less . . . and so it was closed. At the same time the Service realized Elbow Reef's need for a beacon which could be more easily identified by ships at sea. The Gun Cay Lighthouse was decapitated. The iron lantern room with its dome, the petroleum burner equipment, the turning mechanism and the rotating Fresnel lenticualr panels with five bull's-eyes which had been going around at Gun Cay since 1929 (and may have been elsewhere before that) were brought to Hope Town to replace the 1864 standing wick-type light.

"The 'new' light source for Elbow Cay was built by Chance Brothers of Birmingham, England and is till sending out the light today from the top of the Elbow Reef Lighthouse. The hood petroleum burner is rated at 325,000 candlepower, a first order light. A hand pump is used to pressurize the kerosene in heavy iron containers in the service room, directly below the lantern room and travels up a tube to an atomizer which sprays into a mantle (a hood of network fabric) having been pre-heated before lighting. Some camping lanterns operate similarly.

"The beautiful Fresnel lenses concentrate the mantle's light into a piercing beam straight out towards the horizon. The eight thousand pound lenses and burner equipment float in a circular tub of lubricant thereby reducing friction so that seven hundred pounds of weight, when wound up to the top of the tower by a hand winch and using a series of bronze gears, rotate the four ton apparatus once around every 15 seconds and very smoothly at that. The keeper on duty has to wind up the weights every two hours. The smooth sweep of the turning lenses with their five swords of light cutting the darkness over the sea, while the light constantly glows between those beams, is know as the 'soul' of a lighthouse. Once seen and compared to an electric flashing light, it is not soon forgotten and the use of the word 'soul' is more easily understood.

Abacos weather

http://www.abacoescape.com/Weather/AbacoWeather/Weather.html

I ran across this piece today....nice description of weather and hurricane history for the Northern Bahamas....aka Abacos.

We don't use the A/C but it does heat up a bit during the day....into the 80's, but cools down after sunset for nice sleeping weather.

Winds do seem to be a bit higher than projected sometimes and waves respond accordingly.

Skid Marks....

This is a marked passage, albeit shallow! Clear waters abound!

The skid marks are from previous boats....maybe a keel? or an engine or two!

We were very close to bottom....and our depth finder tends to go out when we have little water under our keel....we get used to it and just humm words to the tune..."lately I've been running on faith" by Eric Clapton.....don't know which song we'll sing when we run aground!

Crystal Clear

It's like being in a swimming pool!

Nippers and Grabbers....Big Guana

After a night at anchor near Hopetown, we've moved to Settlement Bay at Orchid Bay Marina. The place is bankrupt? or just didn't pay their bills?? They now have water again (30 cents per gallon) but still don't have power or fuel. They say that will change tomorrow! But it's a buck a foot and they have a nice pool.

We went to Grabbers Sunset Beach Bar for a beer and ribs last night...awesome sunset and good food. Reminds us of the beach at Lake M where we eat at Pat and Pete's with our toes in the sand.

Today we test out Nippers....famous for it's two pools on the bluff overlooking the Atlantic....and maybe moreso for their sunday pig roast....all you can eat for $20. So we hope to spend a nice afternoon at the beach bar today, see how rowdy and raunchy the tourists get and then move on to new destinations tomorrow. Vaughn might need a Nippers t-shirt!

Marsh Harbor

MH is kind of the heart of the Abacos. Lots of space at anchorage and the docks. We are at Harbor View marina for a month but will probably only stay a week. I think you can get anything here but will pay Bahamas pricing which seems to be about double what you pay in the states. We are well provisioned and only pick up a few items...usually fresh vegetables and an ingredient or two for the onboard recipes.

We worked our way here through the north via Spanish Key with a stop at Manjack Key and Green Turtle Key (acutally spelt Cay here). Our night at anchorage in N Manjack included a major thunderstorm at 3am. We loaded the dingy and kayaks before the storm and then dragged our anchor almost to the beach! We are now going to get a Rocna! Green Turtle Cay was fun for a few days....snorkeling, bike riding, swim in the pool, anchored in Black Sound until we had a generator issue, then we moved to BS marina for a couple of nights. Long bike ride around the island.

So, now we wait for a generator pump in Marsh Harbor....Monday? $150 FedEx shipping charge and it could still take a week!

I think if it comes in soon we will move over to the nearby Cays of Great Guana for a week and then go down to the south of the Abacos and stay at Little Harbor. Probably come back here for stays at Hopetown and Man-o-War Cays.

Right now it's virtually calm and the smooth waters entice.

Better in the Bahamas

Well, we made our crossing and it was not too bad. Rock and Roll picked up as we reached the Bahama Bank. It was nice to tie to the dock!

A Mainship came in ahead of us and onboard was Ruby...from MissTickle, a boat we met at the waterfall on the TN and again in Marathon last February. He was helping move a boat back to the mainland and then back to MN for some snow melt flooding at his marina.

We waited at West End for 3 days and enjoyed their pool and beach. Gave the boat a good wash (we had free water due to our membership at Marsh Harbor and also got a 20% discount off the $2 rate) and waited for the A Team to come, a flotilla of 8 boats. The first night we were there a sunken sailboat was towed in.

They had hit the rocks/reef the night before and took on water. There was very little of the boat out of the water as it was towed into the turning basin. Liveaboards who lost everything. They had apparently lost propulsion and were sailing with the jib at 3AM. What a sight....sunken boat, full jib sail still flapping and the American flag still blowing at the surface of the water at the stern. That same night another boat had apparently lost their anchor when their line rode was cut by the coral.

So, then two days later our friends come into the harbor with a story of a trawler on the rocks at Sale Cay. A 46' boat had miscalculated and was grounded, now on it's side in the low tide and taking on water (one engine submurged). He needed a pump to pump out his boat and try and float it at high tide, but nothing was available. Boats anchored nearby could not help. A dingy even grounded trying to get close. Up and down goes the tide. A terrible sight for any boater and a very distressed owner. Now a couple of days later the vessel had been towed into West End and is listing at the dock. Owner talking about towing it back to the US for repairs.

Welcome to the Bahamas! It's incidents like these that certainly make you think!

Mint Julep and company arrived ahead of a storm. We had dinner for about 20 in the Restaurant. The next day they pulled lines and headed back to FL....for about 10 minutes. Wave reports of 8-12 footers were taken from a returning boat....so the boats came back and waited for the storm....which came with a fury! It kept us in the marina for another night too. So I think we had 5 nights at West End.

We then anchored at Sale Cay for a night north of the Big Bahama Island, then detoured to a Marina for the next night due to big winds. Expensive and rocky, so we moved to anchor at Manjack. Nice spot protected by rocks, big sand crescent beach and crystal clear water. I checked out the boat and found a 4-5 foot barracuda under our keel! But that night the big thunder storms came in and put on a vicious light show and kicked our ass with the wind and waves...anchor dragged us almost to the beach. We reset anchor and kept an eye on the storms and our holding until the storms passed.

Now we are at anchor in Black Sound on Green Turtle Cay. Nice place. Lots of boats at moorings and various marinas. We have walked New Plymouth, caught a bite at Leeward Marina and found an internet access point (yeah!). We also went out into the big water (some swell but now wind) and went skin diving around some rocky reef. We need to go out further next time and will should the winds/waves cooperate!

Generally sunny and warm. Lots of boats to see. Incredible clear waters.

We like the Bahamas so far!